MARC FOSH – THE EMPEROR
“Good kitchens need to either find good purveyors or produce for themselves. The latter is more fun.”
We are with Marc Fosh on Mallorca, in his new Garten Eden at Finca Son Mir. The Finca, built innthe 17th century, has been fully restored and been used for several years as Event Location. Marc Fosh has a lease and coming soon will be a new Highlight on Mallorca: His “Farm-to-table Restaurant”.
Since your outstanding beginnings in 2003, you have acheived as Gordon Ramsay in England, an Empire. Star Restaurant, Fosh-Kitchen, Fosch-Lab, Fosh-Food. It all sounds like innovation. So now, “back to the roots”?
The Farm-to-Table Restaurant, from garden to the table, has been a dream of mine for a very long time. On Mallorca, it’s firstly a question of finding the right conditions and the right place. The Finca Son Mir is the right place.
Pure classic or new food culture?
The philosophy behind my food was always quite mediterranean : Light, fresh and healthy with pure flavors and tantalizing taste combinations. At Fosh we serve Tasting Menus where we showcase the best products from the Balearen region, with ideas and inspirations from the whole Mediterranean, but always with clear flavors and seasonal ingredients.
Thinking Globally and purchasing local isn’t just politically correct, it is also personally worth it for the farmers, the Chef and the food. We go even a step further and use that to motivate other purveyors to improve and appreciate their regional product more.
Who owns the Finca- Foreign investors?
No, a Mallorcan Family. This historical estate should stay in the hands of Mallorcans.
Right, but I’ve lived here a long time and Mallorca is the center of my life and work.
What do you miss from England?
With the exception of Game meat, I don’t miss anything.
The Finca Son Mir is the 10th largest agricultural Finca on Mallorca. You have your work cut out for you.
Right. The Finca also has fields with old fruit trees that have been neglected for quite a while. We’ve brought everything back to form. We’ve set-up an herb and vegetable garden, planted johannisbrot-, orange- and lemontrees, and have around six thousand olive trees of two sorts that we use for our prestigious extra native Olive Oil Son Mir.
Where are the animals?
At the moment we are sticking to fruits and vegetables but the idea is, in the near future, to raise our own chickens and pigs. Mallorca has rich, fertile soil and local ingredients influence our cuisine. We also don’t want to rely solely on the purveyors.
When is the opening of your Farm-to-Table restaurant?
We are already working with herbs and vegetables from the gardens of Son Mir in our restaurants. The Farm-to-Table restaurant will open in the spring of 2019.
Your philosophy in 2003 was to create a dish around a fragrance, a flavor and a spice instead of focusing on a main component. Does this philosophy still hold true?
Since then, this philosophy has really become a part of my blood. I experiment with two or three components and sometimes even surprise myself at what pops up. The most important thing for a good Chef: Finding your path and sticking to it. If you stay true to yourself and creative it can be the best job in the world.
Which flavors, fragrances and spices of the island do you find outstanding?
Eucalyptus for example, is abundant on Mallorca, as well as Rosehip and Sea Buckthorn. There is a lot of it in my dishes. Duck with Eucalyptus is my mediterranean twist on Lamb with mint.
You have quite a bit sitting right on your doorstep, do you still go to the market?
Of course! My favorite place is the Mercat de l’Olivar. It’s a chefs paradise.
Are there products that are hard to come by on Mallorca?
Good beef and Game meats are rare on the island.
Are there German Chefs that you know well, perhaps excited about?
I like Sven Elverfeld very much. There’s a lot of colleagues that are doing astonishing things. It’s unbelievable how much cooking has grown as an art in the last couple of years.
You’re one of these artists, what is your signature dish?
Oh, there are a couple: Corzo, a young deer with hemp or Lemoncreme made from pickled, salty lemon with sesame, cilantro, pistachios, rose water and cherries. Or Bacalau with aloe vera, salicornes, peas and lemongrass or a light chocolate mousse with pollen and apricot. I had the good fortune to make some wonderful discoveries and put them on the plate.